Troubleshoot / DIY

3501 Operating Instructions

The Hutchins 3501 Nib/Spot Sander is a multi-purpose sander designed to eliminate small surface imperfections in freshly painted finishes.

The 3501 features a patented quick change pad lock system that enables the user to convert the 3501 from a small nib sander using the 1 ¼"pad into a surface polisher using the 2 ⅞" pad in seconds without the need for additional tools. The red tipped air speed control valve allows the operator to slow the tool's RPM speed for precise small area sanding control. Once the imperfection is removed, the operator may then quickly change to the larger pad, install a wool or foam bonnet, increase the tool's RPMs and polish the sanded area to a high luster using conventional compounds and glazes.

Surface Sanding

Surface sanding can be accomplished with the Hutchins 3501 with either the 1 ¼" pad or the 2 ⅞" pad depending on the size of the area to be sanded. Simply decide which pad should be used and install on the sander using the patented quick change pad lock button located underneath the tool. The aluminum button is located in the blue shroud on the tools under side. Depress this button and insure that it locks into both the inner and outer tool shaft to secure the pad spindle. You may now install the proper sanding pad.

If your goal is to remove small surface imperfections in freshly painted finishes, we recommend using a 1 ⅜" sanding disk in the grit range from 1000 – 3000 depending on the severity of the imperfection. If an aggressive grit is necessary, you should progress to finer grits prior to polishing to save time in the overall refinish process. We further recommend that the sandpaper be lubricated with either water or glaze. Keep a constant supply of lubricant on the sanding disk. Lastly, be sure to lower the tools sanding speed before sanding any surface. This can be done simply by moving the red tipped air speed control valve located underneath the sander to a position 90° from the air inlet. Simple valve adjustments can be made to find the optimum sanding speed.

Surface Polishing After Sanding

Once all surface imperfections have been removed from the freshly painted finish, using the finest available grit sandpaper, the 3501 can be used to buff and polish the finish to a high luster.

Using the patented quick change pad lock system, install the 2 ⅞" hookit pad. Select and install the appropriate 3" wool or foam bonnet. Increase the tools speed by working the red tipped air speed control valve until the RPMs increase. This will allow the 3501 to generate enough friction to remove the sand scratches created during the sanding process. Select the desired compound to be used for the buffing process. Use only a small amount of compound on the sanded area. Apply moderate pressure to the sanded area with the buffing bonnet and depress the 3501 trigger. Although the 3501 features a random-orbit pattern, enough cutting action will be generated to remove sand scratches from freshly painted finishes. Once the scratches have been removed, change to a polishing bonnet and, using a polish or glaze, polish with the 3501 to a high luster.

Assembly 2000

1. Press on 1241S Counterweight Guards onto 1215 Motor Block. The end with the hole goes towards the center. Note slot on top of 1215 Block always goes towards the front. Put 1212S Rings on 1211 Piston. They snap on each end. It is best to replace these with each repair to ensure good compression. Place block on end, and drop piston in. Jiggle it to get it to drop all the way in. When flipping over take note that the number 215 under the motor block casting always goes to the front.

2. Place block upside down, so you can look through two large holes on bottom of casting. These are where the 1210-1 & 1209 shaft will go. Use both thumbs, to tilt piston so gear teeth are at an angle. 1210-1 gear goes in, furthest away from your body. Use thumbs to twist piston gear rack into place. Drop 1209 in the bottom space or closest space towards you. Tilt the 1211, until the 1209 gear drops down. A few taps with a hammer might be necessary.

3. Place the top gear 1227 by the gears. Use an arbor press to press both 1209 & 12010-1 flat. Press one at a time. The extra gear will let you know when to stop.

4. Now the block needs to be freed up. Place motor block on side, and use aluminum block and hammer. Tap gear until piston pushes free in motor block from side to side. Do one side, then flip block over and do other side.

5. Use Spray gasket glue or Silicone Sealant on 1214 Valve Plate. When tacky, place on motor block with 1225 timing plate towards front.

6. Use new 1212S gaskets and glue onto each end of motor block. Make sure to put gasket on, so airway is not blocked. The center hole has a notch. Align that towards the top of the tool. Attach 1217 front with screws, and small clear washers. Hand tighten screws, then tighten with screw gun. The 1218 rear can then be attached in the flowing order: 1220 gasket, 1218 rear, 1222 gasket, & 1223 muffler. Screws with no washers are used.

7. We will now install the 1227 gear on top. With front to you left and rear to right line up hole in 1210-1. Line up 1227 gear hole with hole in shaft. Press 1227 gear down with press, or gently tap down with hammer. Now use 1252 to secure gear. You will need to put tool on side to do this. Use a 1/8 punch to press pin all the way into gear. Turn the gear you just installed counterclockwise till it stops.

8. Prepare 1228S. Place puck inside sector opening, then add washer & screw. Place on top of housing lining up the last tooth to the right. Test turning the sector to make sure you have the correct tooth. When turning back & forth, the sector set should not go over the edge of the block. Turn 1228s to align in direct center, counting the 3rd tooth. Tighten screw by hand then screw gun.

9. Attach new 1232 gasket to 1233 handle. Glue gasket on one side. Wait till tacky, then press down onto 1233 handle. Please give a few hours for handle to dry, unless using minute glue. After drying time, Attach handle housing with screws.

10. Clean any excess glue off. Turn over tool and check gears to make sure they spin freely. Prepare to install 1242 counterweight bar. Install 4-1207S ware strips. Press in with holes towards center gears. Glue the sponges on. The thin sponge in front, Thick sponge in rear.

11. Hold tool in hand angling handle towards you body. Turn Right gear (1210-1 long gear) all the way counterclockwise till it stops. Put counterweight bar 1242 in, lining up spring first. The second tooth on counterweight bar will line up towards rear of tool.

12. Placing the 1204 drive shoe is just the opposite. This part is lined up with gears, all the way to the front.

13. Install 1235S side rails. Start screws on ends and move towards middle. Tighten screws. After installing both sides, move shoe both ways by banging on table. Make sure the drive shoe shuffles to front and back. Now it is time to test the tool with air. Freeing up 2000 is very important. You will need to squirt two full squirts of oil into airway. Start tool, and turn upside down in you lap. Turn off tool, and oil along siderails, and in center hole. Start again, and run hand along bottom on both sides. Check to see if there are any hotspots. Use an aluminum block and Hammer to tap the siderails and stop any metal from rubbing. While looking at bottom, when the tool has good stroke, the screws on each end will appear to touch when the tool in moving.

14. Install Hutchins pad, always put the whole on top towards the rear of tool. Run the tool flat on the bench, under a full person’s weight. You should not be able to stop the tool. Never use 3M pads! These will bind on the bottom of the tool, and cause extensive damage.

2000 Disassembly

Remove Knob, Pad & Handle # 1233 Check under handle. Note condition of the timing sector. You will sometimes see water bubbled in the oil. Remove the 1228S. Check Timing Sector, has worn grooves into the 1225 timing plate? Unscrew Top Valve plate 1214. Do not remove plate yet.

Remove 1235S Side Rails and the 1204 Drive Shoe will come off now. This part should be replaced when you have gouges in the metal on the outer edge (see picture below). The counterweight bar 1242 will come out now. The Old style bar will not have the counterweight spring.

3M pad damage This is what happens when using a 3M pad. The bowing of the pad can cause wear right through the metal. It can eventually wear through the side rails and cause the counterweight #1242 to break. This situation always voids the tool warranty.

Remove the front 1217 and rear 1218.

Use a 1/8 drift punch to push the 1252 pin out of the 1227 gear. Push pin out just enough to free 1210-1 gear

Place the 1215 Block on top of the two aluminum blocks. With a hammer and bit, tap out the 1209 and 1210-1 gears through the top of the valve plate. They should drop through the bottom of the block.

Pry off the 1214 Valve plate. The 1211 Piston and 1212S Piston Rings with ends will now come out. Rings should have no wear, and have a good seal. It is usually a good idea to replace these with each repair, unless the tool is very new.

What to look for:
• Rust and pitting in cylinder.
• Inspect 1209 & 1210-1 from broken or severely sharp teeth on gears.
• Check 1207-1S and 1241-1 for excessive wear. Tip: flip over 1246-1 to use the clean side.
• Replace 1204 and 1235S when the groove is deep on the ends of the 1204.

ASSEMBLING 4500 & (4560)

1. Place part # 1314 (1314-2) on top of part # 1344.

2. Place part # 1712 plastic seal side down, metal side up on top of part # 1344 – press down.

3. Add part # 1342 washer onto spindle top and then place part # 1810 and press down. Finish with washer and screw part # 1846.

4. Place part # 1319-1 (1319-2) rod down in press. Place finished spindle in press and push down until tight.

5. Rotate spindle assembly to match edge of counterweight to top edge of hub, leaving a gap here will cause the tool to bounce around on work surface. Secure with part # 1303S screws.

6. Press part # 1810 into 1821C bearing cup (one is used later to close motor). Place bearing cup and bearing up.

7. Place hub assembly rod in finished cup part # 1821C – press down.

8. Place part # 1821CW on rod. Place key # 1820 into keyway. Use a small hammer and gently top till evenly in slot. Place clip # 1822 on key.

9. Place rotor part # 1324(1324-2) on rod while holding key. You can use a screw driver to prevent it from sliding out when pressed down. Press down ¾ of the way. Slide steel shim in, then press down tightly.

10. Place part # 1828-1 down into screw top hole. Use part # 1828 screw to secure rotor. Tap keyway to push down key. Lightly tap hub to release steel shim. The small spaces created will alleviate rotor drag.

11. Place vanes in rotor slots. Larger piece on bottom, smaller piece on top. When looking straight at tool, you should see the flat side of large vane on right and recessed side on left when tool turns.

12. Place cylinder part # 1325 over rotor and bearing cup with pin on the bottom. Squirt oil on top of rotor and place part # 1821CW down, top with part # 1821C. Press down firmly with press, you can use an old counterweight to get the bearing plate all the way. Place washer 1847 down, then 1807, down, then tighten with screw part # 1703A. Your motor is now finished

13. Slide into housing part # 1315-4, attach shroud part # 1345. Add cap part # 1328.

Common Problems

1. Non-oiling & overheated compressors cause shalak in motor or rust, wearing out vanes.
2. Unbalanced pads wear out the part #’s 1712 & 1810 bearing.
3. Muffler part # 1352 will clog.
4. O-Rings on air valves can be oiled to extend life.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR HUTCHINS ELIMINATOR

PROPER HANDLING: For proficient use of ELIMINATOR, grasp rubber handle as close as possible to motor housing. With other hand, grasp “T” handle on front of housing. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE “T” HANDLE IS USED TO “GUIDE” THE ELIMINATOR TO INSURE 100% CONTROL OF THE POWERFUL TORQUE!

The ELIMINATOR is a true rotary sander. It is not a random-orbit sander. Consequently, DO NOT HANDLE THE ELIMINATOR LIKE ANY OTHER TYPE RANDOM-ORBIT SANDER. IT IS A PRECISION “HIGH-TORQUE, LOW SPEED” SANDER-POLISHER. For highest productivity and superior surfacing, LET THE TORQUE DO THE WORK! DO NOT FORCE THE ABRASIVE INTO THE SURFACE. JUST GUIDE THE ELIMINATOR, IT WILL DO THE REST!

FOR TRADITIONAL SANDING (NON-VACUUM)
A. Attach male air plug to right hand pipe. Tighten plug until rubber handle compresses on main casing. If air seepage occurs, continue tightening until full seal is achieved.
B. Attach “Pigtail” to left hand pipe. Pigtail has dual purpose: Noise Control (Muffler), and Air Diffuser to control high velocity exhaust. Use Velcro tabs to secure to air line.
C. Use built-in Air Regulator for desired speeds. If tool won’t run, CHECK REGULATOR.
D. To remove sanding pad, secure ¼” Allen wrench in Pad center hole. Spin off counter-clock wise. (Note: Pad threads are high-impact plastic for safety. Use extreme care in mating threads to arbor (spindle) when mounting pad.)

FOR VACCUM SANDING Follow steps “A” “B” AND “C” above.
E. Attach vacuum hose to ELIMINATOR vacuum exhaust, then to appropriate vacuum system. Actuate vacuum system before starting ELMINATOR
F. To Perforate Abrasives: Match any notch on pad edge with the single notch on the template (PIERCING TOOL). Thrust downward. Lift ELIMINATOR and move one pad notch forward to perforate additional holes. Repeat procedure with each new disc. (Note: Piercing tools are optional and may be ordered as accessories (Part no. 1746).
TO USE AS POLISHER: Order part No. 5021, which includes all required accessories.
IMPORTANT! Lubricate daily, after each use while tool is still warm.

Operating Instructions for Models; 7544, 7545, 7547 & 7044-6

Before you start

Immerse the end of the blue hose into a container of clean water. We suggest using a clean milk container with two ¼” holes in the cap for the hose and vent. This will allow your water to stay clean and eliminate accidental water spills. Add 2-3 drops of liquid detergent to water to lubricate the sandpaper and to help wash away the cuttings.

Water adjustment

With the tool running, turn brass thumb screw Counter-Clockwise to full open. Do not force valve. Run tool until water reaches tool. Now turn thumb screw in a Clockwise motion until the desired amount of water flow is achieved. Too much water will cause abrasive to hydro-plane while not enough will cause the tool to run dry or stick to the surface.

Sand Paper Selection

The sandpaper you use will determine the finish you achieve. We have found that you will attain a better overall finish if you use sandpaper without holes. The holes in the supplied pad will allow water to travel between the pad and the sandpaper to the sanded surface. Using sandpaper without holes also helps minimize the chance of deeper scratches caused by the holes in pre-punched sandpaper. As you become proficient in the sander’s operation, you should find that the proper selection of sandpaper will cut sanding time while still reducing the time required for buffing. This is due to the Random Orbit action of the sander which does not promote the creation of deep scratches.

Oiling Instructions

Turn water flow valve until closed. Remove airline from tool. Put 3-4 drops of pneumatic tool oil in air inlet. Re-connect airline. Depress trigger for 2 seconds only. This will allow oil to enter motor. The motor rotor will absorb the oil. You will have enough oil in tool for the next day’s use. This will also help prevent tool from rusting, if you have water in your air supply. This 7544 is 100% protected against water damage to tool with proper use. The only water damage to your tool will come from poor air quality and tool submersion into standing water. Make sure water traps are drained and your air dryer is working properly. If your sander will be idle for any period of time, it is recommended to remove the pad and spray lubricating oil (such as WD40) in and around the motor assemble. This will help prevent any rust deposits from forming and will prolong the life of the tool.

Additional operating information for Model 7044

When using the rectangular model 7044, we recommend following the guidelines listed above. In addition, it is important to note that rather than using a round disc, conventional 9’ X 11” wet/dry sandpaper is the suggested abrasive for this sander. Cut the 9” X 11” paper into three equal sheets 3 2/3” X 9”. Clip these sheets onto the sander either one-at-a-time or as a group of three sheets. DO NOT punch holes in the paper; water will flow around the sheets to lubricate the surface. When the top sheet is no longer usable remove that sheet to expose the next one.

Operating Instructions for Models; 7044/7044-6, 7544, 7545, & 7547

Before you start

Immerse the end of the blue hose into a container of clean water. We suggest using a clean milk container with two ¼” holes in the cap for the hose and vent. This will allow your water to stay clean and eliminate accidental water spills. Add 2-3 drops of liquid detergent to water to lubricate the sandpaper and to help wash away the cuttings.

Water adjustment

With the tool running, turn brass thumb screw Counter-Clockwise to full open. Do not force valve. Run tool until water reaches tool. Now turn thumb screw in a Clockwise motion until the desired amount of water flow is achieved. Too much water will cause abrasive to hydro-plane while not enough will cause the tool to run dry or stick to the surface.

Sand Paper Selection

The sandpaper you use will determine the finish you achieve. We have found that you will attain a better overall finish if you use sandpaper without holes. The holes in the supplied pad will allow water to travel between the pad and the sandpaper to the sanded surface. Using sandpaper without holes also helps minimize the chance of deeper scratches caused by the holes in pre-punched sandpaper. As you become proficient in the sander’s operation, you should find that the proper selection of sandpaper will cut sanding time while still reducing the time required for buffing. This is due to the Random Orbit action of the sander which does not promote the creation of deep scratches.

Oiling Instructions

Turn water flow valve until closed. Remove airline from tool. Put 3-4 drops of pneumatic tool oil in air inlet. Re-connect airline. Depress trigger for 2 seconds only. This will allow oil to enter motor. The motor rotor will absorb the oil. You will have enough oil in tool for the next day’s use. This will also help prevent tool from rusting, if you have water in your air supply. This 7544 is 100% protected against water damage to tool with proper use. The only water damage to your tool will come from poor air quality and tool submersion into standing water. Make sure water traps are drained and your air dryer is working properly. If your sander will be idle for any period of time, it is recommended to remove the pad and spray lubricating oil (such as WD40) in and around the motor assemble. This will help prevent any rust deposits from forming and will prolong the life of the tool.

Additional operating information for Model 7044

When using the rectangular model 7044, we recommend following the guidelines listed above. In addition, it is important to note that rather than using a round disc, conventional 9’ X 11” wet/dry sandpaper is the suggested abrasive for this sander. Cut the 9” X 11” paper into three equal sheets 3 2/3” X 9”. Clip these sheets onto the sander either one-at-a-time or as a group of three sheets. DO NOT punch holes in the paper; water will flow around the sheets to lubricate the surface. When the top sheet is no longer usable remove that sheet to expose the next one.

TIMING INSTRUCTIONS

MODELS #2000, #8620, and #4920

1) With the front of the tool to your left, turn timing gear counter-clockwise, all the way.
2) Insert last tooth of sector (to the right) into the timing gear.
3) Insert sector stud and line up with timing plate hole.
4) Insert and tighten screw.
5) Turn gear to make sure it turns freely.

INSTALLING SPRING-LOADED COUNTERWEIGHT

1.) Turn tool upside down to expose gears with front of tool away from you.
2.) Turn gear on the right side of the motor block counter-clockwise all the way.
3.) Place spring in the hole in the end of the counterweight provided for it.
4.) Insert the open end of the spring onto the dowel pin in the front end plate and lower the counterweight (flat side down) into the forward guide.
5.) Slide it forward until the second tooth on the front of the counterweight is lined up between the two pinion gears.
6.) Lay the counterweight down between the pinion gears. *Note: The part of the gasket that hangs below the motor block on the front and rear should both be pressed down toward the outside, (front & rear).
7.) Before installing drive shoe, make sure the counterweight will travel the full stroke. This may be done by holding the front of the counterweight down in the motor housing with your left thumb while pushing the rear of the counterweight forward with your right thumb. It should travel forward until the second tooth of the rear of the counterweight is between the two motor shaft gears; if it does, the 1242 is timed correctly. Release the forward push on the 1242 and let it return to starting position. At this time make sure the wear strips, (#1207S) and the front and rear lubricator pads, (#1213A) are in place.
8.) The drive shoe, (Part#1204) can now be installed by placing the gear rack of the shoe toward the front of the motor block until the second tooth on the rear of gear rack is between pinion gears. Slide the drive shoe down the pinion gears until it is flat against the wear strips. Push front of drive shoe toward the rear to make sure that you have a full travel of the shoe without hitting the motor block.
9.) Install siderail screws through the siderails loosely until all are started into motor unit and front and rear. Then tighten front and rear screws first while holding side rail tight against drive shoe, then tighten remaining screws.

TIMING INSTRUCTIONS

Models #8623, #8624, #8625, #2011, #2023, #2024, #2025

1.) With the front of the tool to your left, turn timing gear clockwise, all the way.
2.) Insert last tooth of sector (teeth toward you) into the timing gear.
3.) Insert sector stud into timing plate hole and tighten sector screw.
4.) Turn gear to make sure it turns freely.

INSERTING SIDE COUNTERWEIGHTS

1.) With the front of the tool to your left, turn timing gear clockwise, all the way.
2.) Insert side counterweight (with teeth toward block) to left side of the counterweight slot as far as it will go. Counterweight teeth will engage with vertical gear teeth.
3.) Place counterweight guide into recess over counterweight. Hold it in place with your fingers while you put the counterweight in the opposite side, the exact same way toward the front of the tool.
4.) Hold both counterweights in place with one hand and turn the timing gear with the other hand to make sure the side counterweights will allow a full stroke of the pistons in the motor block. (The counterweight should travel the length of the slot and end up at the same distance from the end on both sides. If not, repeat the above procedures).

INSERTING LOWER COUNTERWEIGHT

1.) Turn tool upside down to expose gears with front of tool away from you.
2.) Turn gear on the right side of the motor block clockwise all the way.
3.) Insert spring into hole of 1242-2 counterweight. Put open end of spring onto the screw in the center of rear end plate with the 1242-2 flat side down (the side with 2 flat squares), toward the 1241-1 guides at the rear. Compress the spring and slide 1242- 2 toward the rear until the second tooth on the rear of the counterweight is between pinion gears. Lay the counterweight down until it is flat against the guides front and rear. Hold in place and push counterweight toward the rear. If it stops with the second tooth on the front of the counterweight between the pinion gears it is timed correctly. Make sure 1207-1 wear strips are in place.
4.) Place front of drive shoe even with front of tool. Third tooth of gear rack will slip onto center outside diameter of pinion gears. Drive shoe will lay down against wear strips 1207-1s. Hold shoe in place and slide rear of shoe forward. If it stops even with rear, it is correct. Install side rail screws through side rails loosely. Tighten front and rear screws first while holding side rail against drive shoe. Tighten remaining screws.
5.) Test tool.